- Summer Mountain
Into the wilderness of Vanoise national park
GARDEN OF THE FRENCH PEOPLE
At the entrance to the park, Rosuel mountain hut marks the starting point for many hiking trails through the Vanoise mountains.
Hanging in the entrance is a text written by Samivel on the creation of the park in 1963. In his own way, this art lover and mountain enthusiast wishes visitors a warm welcome to what he describes as ‘the garden of the French people’.
Your senses are heightened.
You catch sight of butterflies twirling by and spot flowers blooming, hear the roar of the Ponthurin river down the valley, and the call of a marmot far afield...
While taking a break near an abandoned hut, its corrugated iron roof open to the skies, a flock of birds take flight, resonating like a concerto inside this makeshift auditorium. Your feel light-hearted stepping back onto the trail, having witnessed this simple pleasure.
The climb up to Mont Pourri hut rewards you with a panoramic view over Vanoise’s major peaks: Dôme de la Sache, la Grande Motte, la Grande Casse, Bellecôte and la Pointe de l'Aliet. The route then passes by the Chalet de la Sévolière, offering a chance to learn more about the culture and buildings of alpine pastures, two important parts of the Park’s heritage. Traditional mountain dwellings all made use of the most appropriate materials and the best siting, so there is a whole chapter of collective local history to discover here.
FOR THE LOVE OF THE MOUNTAINS
Laurent Julien and Sabrina André welcome visitors to the hut with open arms, and for hungry travellers, a generous slice of blueberry pie. Spacious communal tables in the main room encourage encounters and conversation among the families, hikers, trail runners, climbers and mountaineers who stop by.
What we all have in common is a love of the mountains, explains Sandra.
Laurent has been bringing this place to life for the last 12 years. Over dinner, he talks about what his far from restful job involves: from hosting to handiwork, from cooking to managing.
When I wake up in the morning and see the mountains out of the window, I know why I do this”, he confides. “Another piece of Beaufort cheese? It comes from the farm just across the way...”
It’s time to go to bed. At the entrance to the dormitory, there is a sign warning people about a well-known curse of the hiker: ‘snorers’.
A PLACE FOR CONTEMPLATION
Taking a detour via Mindières hut offers hikers a stunning view overlooking the lake. Benjamin Plumecocq, the warden, is in the middle of mending a sign outside. His eyes sparkle when he talks about his daily life over the past 20 years.
"For hikers, the Park offers a place of self-discovery”, he confides.
The abundance of vast, open spaces is conducive to contemplation. Plagne lake’s emerald green waters make it a sought-after destination, which you can access on foot or by donkey. The route back towards Rosuel follows the riverbanks. On this side of the valley, further down, the mountain streams crossed earlier on have now made way for waterfalls. Several hikers have whipped out their binoculars to try to spot the pair of bearded vultures which lives close to the falls.
Some pleasantries exchanged about this unspoilt environment and our boots hit the tarmac once again, signalling the end of the journey.