• Summer Mountain

Into the wilderness of Vanoise national park

Nestled between the Tarentaise and Maurienne valleys, Vanoise National Park is one of Savoie Mont Blanc’s treasures. Established in 1963 to help save the ibex, it was the first National Park to be created in France. A partnership with its Italian neighbour, Gran Paradiso, created the largest natural protected area in the western Alps. Let’s take a hike through this environmentally sensitive yet timeless land.  

GARDEN OF THE FRENCH PEOPLE 

At the entrance to the park, Rosuel mountain hut marks the starting point for many hiking trails through the Vanoise mountains.
Hanging in the entrance is a text written by Samivel on the creation of the park in 1963. In his own way, this art lover and mountain enthusiast wishes visitors a warm welcome to what he describes as ‘the garden of the French people’.  

FOLLOW THE HIKING TRAIL

One of the most popular routes to discover this unspoilt natural environment is the Plagne lake circular trail, via Mont Pourri hut. 

The hike begins with a steep ascent through larch trees, and levels out as it winds its way through Alpine meadows. While you get into your stride, you may find your eyes glued to the ground looking up only to admire far-off peaks or to check the way ahead. Little by little, the mind moves from focusing on the destination, to the journey itself.  

Your senses are heightened. You catch sight of butterflies twirling by and spot flowers blooming, hear the roar of the Ponthurin river down the valley, and the call of a marmot far afield...
While taking a break near an abandoned hut, its corrugated iron roof open to the skies, a flock of birds take flight, resonating like a concerto inside this makeshift auditorium. Your feel light-hearted stepping back onto the trail, having witnessed this simple pleasure. 

Your senses are heightened.

You catch sight of butterflies twirling by and spot flowers blooming, hear the roar of the Ponthurin river down the valley, and the call of a marmot far afield...
While taking a break near an abandoned hut, its corrugated iron roof open to the skies, a flock of birds take flight, resonating like a concerto inside this makeshift auditorium. Your feel light-hearted stepping back onto the trail, having witnessed this simple pleasure.

The climb up to Mont Pourri hut rewards you with a panoramic view over Vanoise’s major peaks: Dôme de la Sache, la Grande Motte, la Grande Casse, Bellecôte and la Pointe de l'Aliet. The route then passes by the Chalet de la Sévolière, offering a chance to learn more about the culture and buildings of alpine pastures, two important parts of the Park’s heritage. Traditional mountain dwellings all made use of the most appropriate materials and the best siting, so there is a whole chapter of collective local history to discover here. 

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    FOR THE LOVE OF THE MOUNTAINS 

    Laurent Julien and Sabrina André welcome visitors to the hut with open arms, and for hungry travellers, a generous slice of blueberry pie. Spacious communal tables in the main room encourage encounters and conversation among the families, hikers, trail runners, climbers and mountaineers who stop by.

    What we all have in common is a love of the mountains, explains Sandra. 

    Laurent has been bringing this place to life for the last 12 years. Over dinner, he talks about what his far from restful job involves: from hosting to handiwork, from cooking to managing.

    When I wake up in the morning and see the mountains out of the window, I know why I do this”, he confides. “Another piece of Beaufort cheese? It comes from the farm just across the way...” 

    It’s time to go to bed. At the entrance to the dormitory, there is a sign warning people about a well-known curse of the hiker: ‘snorers’.  

    The next morning, the route heads towards Plagne lake, which you can just make out from the refuge. The balcony trail crosses a succession of streams before heading down towards the GR5 path. Here and there, you can spot marmots basking in the sunshine.

     

    They are generally not shy, and easily approached by careful hikers. At Plan de la Plagne, the Ponthurin river winds through a thick green carpet. Gerard’s Tarentaise cattle graze peacefully. 

    Randonneur en direction du lac de la Plagne depuis la porte de Rosuel dans le Parc national de la Vanoise

    A PLACE FOR CONTEMPLATION 

    Taking a detour via Mindières hut offers hikers a stunning view overlooking the lake. Benjamin Plumecocq, the warden, is in the middle of mending a sign outside. His eyes sparkle when he talks about his daily life over the past 20 years.

    "For hikers, the Park offers a place of self-discovery”, he confides.

    The abundance of vast, open spaces is conducive to contemplation. Plagne lake’s emerald green waters make it a sought-after destination, which you can access on foot or by donkey. The route back towards Rosuel follows the riverbanks. On this side of the valley, further down, the mountain streams crossed earlier on have now made way for waterfalls. Several hikers have whipped out their binoculars to try to spot the pair of bearded vultures which lives close to the falls. 
    Some pleasantries exchanged about this unspoilt environment and our boots hit the tarmac once again, signalling the end of the journey. 

     

     

    More informations
    Other hiking ideas

    To discover the Vanoise National Park

    Family day trips, itinerant hikes, glacier hikes, there are a thousand ways to discover the Park on foot.

    All hikes in Vanoise

     

      • ‎Balade en famille
      • ‎Randonnée itinérante
      • ‎Randonnée glaciaire