High mountain race in the south face of the Grand Bec at the beginning of the refuge of the Grand Bec. The approach itinerary is the same as for the west ridge or at the end of the lane Vendredi 13.

Sport Big rock climb : Voie Cassien - Le Grand Bec (South face) Planay


Departing from Planay (73350)

General Information :
• Type of route: crossing, round-trip, loop (approach or refuge)
• Duration: 1 day.
• Type of rock: limestone.
• Configuration: face. Altitude min/max: 2405 m/ 3398 m • Positive elevation: 1000 m • Elevation of difficulties: 590 m.
• Altitude beggining of difficulties : 2800m • Quotations: AD+ 5a > 4a A0 II X2 P1+
• Glacier material: cleats at the beginning of the season

Access :
Elevation at the approach: 400 m
Orientations: South.

Maps : IGN - 3534OT - Les Trois Vallées - Modane - Parc National de la Vanoise

Approach :
Since the refuge of Grand Bec, take the same route as for the ridge W. At the end of the upper plateau of the Grand Bec foothills, go on the right in the highest of the morainic plateau. The departure of the way is marked by a blue cord.
Way 4 to 5 hours.
The whole climbing takes place on 25 lengthes of +/-25m. The last 50 meters are in common with the ridge W.
The difficulties vary between 3 and 5a with sometimes a more difficult one. Some passages are similar of a delicate ground of adventure.
All the relays are equipped on 2 gudgeons + link.

Descent :
• Crossed Grand Bec > Vallonnet and descent by the Glacier of the Vuzelle.
• By the glacier of Troquaïrou until Champagny (in this case, plan glacier equipment).
• If abseiling, count 3h

Remarks :
• To go down this path, the rock must be dry (presence of lichen in some sector).
• At times, the rock requires precautions. Some passages should be cleaned up over time.
• It is possible to follow the way Vendredi 13 and the Cassien way. Follow the cairns at the exit of the way Vendredi 13 (15 min).

Material :
• Rope 1x 50m
• 10 to 12 climbing quickdraws
• Possibly 1 to 2 straps and 2 to 3 small/medium setters

History of the itinerary :
Opening: 2016 and 2017 - David Chevassu, Jean-Marc Granger.

Points of Passage - Grand Bec Refuge 2405 m

    1 2


    Free access.


    Languages spoken : French
    Languages of documentation : French

    Period of practice

    From 01/06 to 31/10.
    Spring to autumn, according to snow conditions and on your onw responsabilities.


    73350 Planay
    Departing from : Planay (73350)
    Latitude : 45.423527 - Longitude : 6.752919

    More informations

    Information update on 25/10/2019 by Communauté de Communes Val Vanoise - Vallée de Bozel Tourisme