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Mix the wheat and buckwheat flours. Make a well and gradually add the eggs, salt, grated nutmeg and warm water. Knead the mixture until it forms a malleable pastry (knead for quite a long time). Roll out the pastry and let it rest so it dries slightly. Cut it into 4 to 5-cm wide strips. Flour the strips on each side and place them on top of each other. Cut them lengthways to produce tagliatelli-sized strips, and then cut them widthways to produce small squares. Let them rest on a cloth until it is time to cook them. Fill a large pan with salted water and bring to the boil. Add the crozets and cook for 20 min (30 min for shop-bought crozets). Turn off the heat and let them swell in the water for another 10 min. During this time, soften the onions in butter. Drain the crozets, cover them with grated cheese, add the onions and serve immediately.
Traditionally made for St Blaise’s Day (3rd February), Thônes crozets are a sort of gnocchi. Place 1 kg of white flour in a bowl. Add half a glass of oil, plus salt, pepper, and, if desired, cooked mashed potatoes. Add warm water and mix to form a well-bound and quite firm paste. Shape into sausages and cut into discs. Poach in salted boiling water. As soon as the crozets rise to the surface, remove from the heat and leave them to swell for a few minutes. Drain. Add pepper, melted butter and Gruyère. Serve with a seasonal salad.